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Quando Mary cambiò il mondo: chi inventò la minigonna di Twiggy!

manifestazione-a-Monaco-1970

di Serena Paoletti - Se alla francese Gabrielle Coco Chanel viene attribuito il merito di aver messo i pantaloni alle signore, nella prima metà del secolo scorso; alla britannica Mary Quant, 85 candeline l’11 febbraio, il mondo riconosce di essere stata la “mamma della mionna”, di aver diffuso nella seconda metà del ’900 l’indumento femminile più amato dalle ragazze di tutte le latitudini facendolo indossare da una parrucchiera di 17 anni, Leslie Hornby, detta Twiggy (grissino), antesignana delle top model teen ager.

Già, perché l’invenzione di quella piccola striscia di tessuto che arrivava a metà coscia e oltre e che si portava obbligatoriamente con alti stivali e collant, anch’essi appena inventati al posto delle calze con giarrettiera, viene invece attribuita ad André Courrèges, che nel 1964 aveva presentato a Parigi corti vestitini dalle linee a trapezio, e che quindi aveva rivendicato la paternità della mionna.

Ma, “Le vere creatrici della mini sono le ragazze, le stesse che si vedono per la strada” amava dire Mary Quant che in realtà aveva anche avuto il merito di averle accorciate fino ai limiti della decenza. Ancora oggi la mionna è un look amatissimo dalle ragazze e in genere accettato . Nei primi anni Sessanta la società era ancora molto ‘bigotta’ in tema di costumi. Il Sessantotto arriverà con la sua carica e rivoluzionaria e porterà amore libero, pillola anticoncezionale, capelli lunghi per i “figli dei fiori”, jeans e mionne per le girl.

Mary Quant nasce a Blackheath l’11 febbraio 1934, in un sobborgo di Londra.
I suoi genitori sono due professori gallesi che insegnano alla London University.
Per la loro amata figlia sognano un tranquillo d’insegnante. Invece per Mary che studia al dsmiths College, quella vita è insopportabile, e a sedici anni decide di andarsene di casa per vivere a Londra.
Qui conosce Alander Plunket Greene, rampollo di una nobile famiglia inglese e nipote di Bertrand Russell, anch’egli smanioso di libertà.

I due iniziano una vita bohemien: mangiano quando hanno , viaggiano come possono, si vestono come passa loro per la testa. Mary ha una predilezione per le gonne corte e gli stitti, Alander si adatta. I due fanno amicizia con un avvocato diventato fotografo, Archie Mc Nair, e quando Alander per il suo ventunesimo compleanno eredita dei , decidono, con l’aiuto di Mc Nair, di comperare una casa. Nello scantinato aprono un ristorante ed al primo piano la boutique Bazaar (1955). La boutique situata sulla Kings Road a Londra, ha un successo immediato tra i giovani britannici, e oltre confine. Finalmente i giovani della generazione di rottura hanno trovato chi la pensa come loro, che vive come loro e che capisce ciò che poteva piacere a loro.

I giovani del paese più conformista d’Europa, la Gran Bretagna, sono i primi a sentire la necessità di cambiamenti, che per spezzare la tradizione ed imporsi all’attenzione, devono essere necessariamente estremi. La frattura con il vecchio mondo è rappresentata dai capelli lunghi per i ragazzi, dalle gonne corte per le ragazze e dalla musica dei Beatles. I londinesi dapprima ridono della boutique di Mary e del folcloristico gruppo di giovani che la frequenta, ma poi la curiosità attira gente del mondo del , del teatro, dell’arte. Arrivano i e Mary, che nel frattempo si è sposata con Alander, apre un altro negozio nella snob Brompton Road a Khtsbridge.

Icona della Swinging London sarà anche brillante imprenditrice: fonda nel 1963 il “Ginger Group” per esportare i suoi prodotti negli Usa, lancerà unea di cosmetici nel 1966 e una collezione di calzature nel 1967.

Nel 1966, Mary Quant riceve dalle mani della regina Elisabetta, l’onorificenza di della Corona Britannica, che l’anno prima era stato dato ai suoi idoli: i Beatles. Lo scrittore Bernard Levin la definirà “High Priestess of Sixties fashion”, l’alta sacerdotessa della moda degli anni sessanta.

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